Post by buttybach1932 on Aug 9, 2024 11:53:06 GMT
Hi Vince
I was having a think about your comments yesterday about the ignition timing and I presume that you have updated yesterdays post.
What is the ignition timing when you check it with the stroboscope ?. As the 'Electrex World' ignition module has an inbuilt advance curve the ignition timing should be 13 to 15 degrees BTDC at tickover and 23 to 25 degrees BTDC fully advanced. Before you try anything else check that the woodruff key is in good condition and that the 'Electrex World' rotor is sitting correctly on the mainshaft taper. If the woodruff key is worn or damaged it can throw the timing out by several degrees. You can also try turning the woodruff 180 degrees as this can also effect the timing. If the ignition timing is still out there are only two solutions.
The difficult one is to strip the engine, dismantle the crankshaft press out the mainshaft and reposition it to give the correct the ignition timing. This is loads of work and agro. Plus I have never seen a factory setting for the woodruff key position on a Villiers engine. Its a difficult job, I have done it a number of times on BSA Bantam engines when the generator side mainshaft has been damaged.
The easier method is to re-drill the four mounting holes in the stator backplate. It would be best to take the stator coils off the aluminium backplate to make the marking out easier. When you know how many degrees the ignition timing is out you can work out the required positions for the new mounting holes. The new holes will probably be part way into the original holes which makes them difficult to drill. Fill the old holes with araldite and let it harden properly which takes around 48 hours sitting on top of my hot water cylinder. You can then mark out the new hole positions using a protractor, centre pop the new hole positions. Re-drill the holes using a pillar drill starting with a centre drill or a small pilot drill 3mm maximum diameter and work up to the mounting screw size. The final hole size should be 1/64" or 0.5mm larger diameter than the mounting screws then countersink to suit the mounting screw heads. Still not an easy job but much easier than rebuilding and re-aligning a crankshaft.
Best of luck with your engine problems.
Regards
Butty Bach
I was having a think about your comments yesterday about the ignition timing and I presume that you have updated yesterdays post.
What is the ignition timing when you check it with the stroboscope ?. As the 'Electrex World' ignition module has an inbuilt advance curve the ignition timing should be 13 to 15 degrees BTDC at tickover and 23 to 25 degrees BTDC fully advanced. Before you try anything else check that the woodruff key is in good condition and that the 'Electrex World' rotor is sitting correctly on the mainshaft taper. If the woodruff key is worn or damaged it can throw the timing out by several degrees. You can also try turning the woodruff 180 degrees as this can also effect the timing. If the ignition timing is still out there are only two solutions.
The difficult one is to strip the engine, dismantle the crankshaft press out the mainshaft and reposition it to give the correct the ignition timing. This is loads of work and agro. Plus I have never seen a factory setting for the woodruff key position on a Villiers engine. Its a difficult job, I have done it a number of times on BSA Bantam engines when the generator side mainshaft has been damaged.
The easier method is to re-drill the four mounting holes in the stator backplate. It would be best to take the stator coils off the aluminium backplate to make the marking out easier. When you know how many degrees the ignition timing is out you can work out the required positions for the new mounting holes. The new holes will probably be part way into the original holes which makes them difficult to drill. Fill the old holes with araldite and let it harden properly which takes around 48 hours sitting on top of my hot water cylinder. You can then mark out the new hole positions using a protractor, centre pop the new hole positions. Re-drill the holes using a pillar drill starting with a centre drill or a small pilot drill 3mm maximum diameter and work up to the mounting screw size. The final hole size should be 1/64" or 0.5mm larger diameter than the mounting screws then countersink to suit the mounting screw heads. Still not an easy job but much easier than rebuilding and re-aligning a crankshaft.
Best of luck with your engine problems.
Regards
Butty Bach